FAQ
Sellers: Courtesy Listings: To list your horse you must be the owner/trainer and have permission to sell the horse. Please e-mail us at [email protected] with all information, pics, video, anything you have and a phone number. Pics/Video Clips can be texted (email for phone number). The fastest way to find these guys a home is with updated pics (side, head, eye, any lumps or bumps, etc) and video of them walking, trotting, and personality in stall is fantastic!
Buyers: PARR allows trainers/owners of Racehorses to share their information when we cross promote, network, share, and post their horses "ads". We take no responsibility or liability for the actual horses themselves, the information/accuracy, vet history, etc. Please use the same sense you would in buying a horse from anyone. Ask questions, trust your instinct on if you are 100% sure it is the right horse for you and you can give it the right home. We do not want to see any of these beautiful horses at an auction/slaughter/starved! If you are unsure you can give it an amazing home please do not contact the owners. If the horse is located at the racetrack, understand you can NOT sit on or ride the horse. You can look at it, jog it, etc. There are no turnout areas either.
Why the rush? When a horse becomes "for sale" the owners are expecting the trainers to find them homes fast. Sometimes they have new horses coming in and need the stall space. It costs anywhere from $20-$55 per DAY for these owners to keep the horse at the track.... if they are retired, those daily expenses just become more and more of an expense. Please understand that most horses are sold on a FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS! If you want a horse, keep an open line of communication with the trainer/owner, leave a deposit if needed, and be active. It is not uncommon for someone to say they want a horse, the trainer not hear from them for a day, and next thing you know horse is sold to someone else. If you want a horse... be serious, come with cash, and have vetting/trailering figured out ASAP. The nicest horses normally do not last more than a few days once they start getting talked about!
WE ONLY POST WHAT INFO WE HAVE. WE DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO ANY MORE INFO, PICTURES, VIDEOS, ETC. PLEASE CALL THE NUMBERS LISTED IN EACH AD FOR MORE INFORMATION.
*Contact the trainers between 8am-8pm. Please understand many wake up at 4-5am and go to bed EARLY! Many of them have breaks after training around Noon.
Buyers: PARR allows trainers/owners of Racehorses to share their information when we cross promote, network, share, and post their horses "ads". We take no responsibility or liability for the actual horses themselves, the information/accuracy, vet history, etc. Please use the same sense you would in buying a horse from anyone. Ask questions, trust your instinct on if you are 100% sure it is the right horse for you and you can give it the right home. We do not want to see any of these beautiful horses at an auction/slaughter/starved! If you are unsure you can give it an amazing home please do not contact the owners. If the horse is located at the racetrack, understand you can NOT sit on or ride the horse. You can look at it, jog it, etc. There are no turnout areas either.
Why the rush? When a horse becomes "for sale" the owners are expecting the trainers to find them homes fast. Sometimes they have new horses coming in and need the stall space. It costs anywhere from $20-$55 per DAY for these owners to keep the horse at the track.... if they are retired, those daily expenses just become more and more of an expense. Please understand that most horses are sold on a FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS! If you want a horse, keep an open line of communication with the trainer/owner, leave a deposit if needed, and be active. It is not uncommon for someone to say they want a horse, the trainer not hear from them for a day, and next thing you know horse is sold to someone else. If you want a horse... be serious, come with cash, and have vetting/trailering figured out ASAP. The nicest horses normally do not last more than a few days once they start getting talked about!
WE ONLY POST WHAT INFO WE HAVE. WE DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO ANY MORE INFO, PICTURES, VIDEOS, ETC. PLEASE CALL THE NUMBERS LISTED IN EACH AD FOR MORE INFORMATION.
*Contact the trainers between 8am-8pm. Please understand many wake up at 4-5am and go to bed EARLY! Many of them have breaks after training around Noon.
Below is some information to help those who may be new to the "Racehorse World". First decide what type of horse you are looking to purchase. A hunter, jumper, dressage, eventing, trail riding, pleasure, companion? If you are working with a trainer, it is advised that you have then assist you in your search. They will know what may be most suitable for your abilities, budget, and goals.
LINKS
An excellent article from Rood & Riddle Veterinary Hospital in Kentucky, with some FAQ and what to look for regarding health concerns, soundness, etc. of the Ex-Racehorse.
http://offtrackthoroughbreds.com/2013/07/02/qa-what-to-look-for-when-ottb-shopping/
More Great Tips from the New Vocation's OTTB Program, site. http://www.horseadoption.com/
"Racing Injuries" http://www.horseadoption.com/common-racing-injuries/
"OTTB Myths" http://www.horseadoption.com/racehorse-myths/
"Tips/Retraining" http://www.horseadoption.com/thoroughbred-tips/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TIPS and FAQ About Purchasing an Ex-Racehorse
written by M.B.
Calling About a Horse/What to Ask:
Call the trainer of the horse you are interested in, and ask any important questions up front. This helps eliminate wasting their time by setting an appointment and the horse being nothing near what you need/want. Ask about soundness, personality, when it raced last (if just raced, horse may be more sore, could have came back with minor injury, or will require extra "down time" for their body/muscles to relax before you can start any sort of re-training). Talk to them about your wants/goals, discuss the horses history (or what they know), how long have they had the horse, how is the horse for riding, bathing, in the stall, etc.
Many trainers have sport horse backgrounds and knowledge of other disciplines. Tell them what you are looking for, and ask questions! You can ask any questions you would ask anyone selling a horse. Their daily activities, personality, health concerns, past injuries that could decide what type of career horse can have, what does the horse eat (if a horse seems "hot" he could be on very large amounts of a high calorie/sugar Sweet Feed to give him increased energy. When bringing him into a new lifestyle with a lower sugar/reduced ration, you could assume the horse would "come down" from any type of a high. Turnout works wonders as well. You have to remember these horses get TONS of feed, and are confined to their stalls 23 hours a day. They are either worked or hand walked in the mornings (or put on hot-walker), but that is is. If a horse appears very laid back and quiet even in this environment, more likely than not they will adjust easily and be even better in a normal environment. If they are very hot/active/agitated/nervous, you have to take that into consideration. They may come down dramatically, but may be more suitable for a home with lots of turnout, in a 6 day a week riding program, etc. Those types most likely will not make the best trail horse for Dad!
Setting up an Appointment/What to Look For:
Set up an appointment to see the horse. If there are multiple horses you may be interested in, try setting up multiple appointments with various trainers on the same day. Remember to keep an open mind. These horses will look different than you may be used to of a typical "show horse" or pet. They will be racing fit (which often times can make them appear thin, no muscling along the neck, and a smaller looking barrel). Remember, they need to come down from the track after they go to their new home, lose the racing muscle, gain fat and new muscle in the "right places". This takes some time. If the horse is very thin, you are told they are a poor eater and often nervous, this could mean they have Gastric Stomach Ulcers or that they will be slower to gain weight. You need to take this into consideration in the amount of time you are willing to invest in "time off" for your next horse. Some horses can take up to 6 months to truly turn into "a new horse" again. Thankfully, most horses make a quick turn around and will be fat, quiet, and happy in about 60-90 days. Be aware that sometimes being "body sore" can cause a horse to look stiff or sore when walking/jogging. Watch for signs of an actual lamness versus just being "sore" somewhere. A veterinary exam is ALWAYS encouraged. Various vets are available by appointment to do Pre-Purchase Exams/Ex-Rays, etc.
What role does PARR play?
PARR is simply a page that allows trainers/owners of Racehorses to share their information. We take no responsibility or liability for the actual horses themselves, the information/accuracy, vet history, etc. Please use the same sense you would in buying a horse from anyone. Ask questions, trust your instinct on if you are 100% sure it is the right horse for you and you can give it the right home. We do not want to see any of these beautiful horses at an auction/slaughter/starved/sold over and over due to the wrong people buying the wrong horse! If you are unsure you can give it the proper home, please do not contact the owners.
Can I ride the horse at the track?
NO. If the horse is located at the racetrack, understand you can NOT sit on or ride the horse. You can see the horse, watch it walk/jog in hand, feel its legs, etc. There are no turnouts, paddocks, or arenas. Please discuss with the trainers/sellers if the horse is located OFF property, at a near by farm. Options of sitting on horse etc may be available for those horses! Remember the owner/trainer/handler/track/etc are NOT liable for ANY injuries caused by a horse, as under PA Equine Law.
Negotiating/Deposits/Purchasing:
You may want to set up any vet exams/shipping arrangements before looking at a horse, if you already feel hopeful it could work. Delays in trying to set these things up, can mean the difference between a trainer selling the horse to someone else who can take the horse sooner. The best tools for negotiation are offering a good quality home (have pictures of the farm/other horses/you riding etc with you to help prove you will offer a quality home), have some references with phone numbers available to give the trainer, and Cash / Horse Trailer. If you can leave a deposit that day, and have a vetting/shipping set up for the next day there is a good chance you will take the horse home. These trainers are often faced with very expensive Daily Care rates, and encouraged by the owners to sell the horses ASAP. If a trainer has new horses shipping in, and decide to retire a horse to make room, they want that horse to find a new home ASAP. If you say you will set up a vetting, but need a few days, or it will be a week until your shipper can come etc, we can almost guarantee that horse will be sold to the next person who comes to see it with cash-in-hand. These trainers have a business to run, and the owners do not like paying bills on a horse that is now "retired" so to speak. Most of the trainers at the track are willing to work with you over a reasonable time frame. Just remember... if you really want a horse, you have to act fast! Between PARR, CANTER, and other OTTB networking groups, these horses pictures are being shared with thousands of people a day online.
First Come First Serve Basis:
When a horse becomes "for sale" the owners are expecting the trainers to find them homes fast. These trainers have a lot of pressure on them. The owners either want the horse to WIN, or want the horse gone if he isn't. That is the sad truth. This is a business for many owners. An investment. Trainers are the ones responsible for doing the best they can, and doing the best thing for the horse. If a horse is not winning, or really not competitive as a racehorse, they will suggest the owners "retire" them. Sometimes they have new horses (or better horses) coming in and need the stall space. Trainers are given a set amount of stalls, so they choose their horses wisely.
It costs anywhere from $20-$60 per DAY for these owners to keep the horse at the track.... if they are retired, those daily expenses just become more and more of an expense, on top of normally a large amount of money lost. (If everyone got rich with racehorses... everyone would own one!). Please understand that most horses are sold on a FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS! If you want a horse, keep an open line of communication with the trainer/owner, leave a deposit if needed, and be active. It is not uncommon for someone to say they want a horse, the trainer not hear from them for a day, and next thing you know horse is sold to someone else. If you want a horse... be serious, come with cash, and have vetting/trailering figured out ASAP. Make sure the trainer KNOWS you are serious, and that you will offer a good home. The nicest horses normally do not last more than a few days once they start getting talked about! Often times people have scouted them out and the minute they hear they are available - that horse is sold to the first person who walks in with cash in hand.
How to See a horse at the Race Track/ID Required/Best Time to Go:
In order to get on the "backside" aka the stabling area, at Penn National, you will have to have the trainer sign you in at the gate. (Penn National's gate is located on the corner of Mountain Road and Firehouse Road). You must have a valid photo ID (such as a Drivers License) with you. You are limited to just a few "Day Passes" at the track per YEAR, so we HIGHLY encourage you to set up as many appointments to see horses in 1 day as you can! The best time to see horses is in the mornings, but talk to the trainer for their most convenient time.
Track Etiquette/Rules:
Horses ALWAYS HAVE THE RIGHT OF WAY! Racehorses moving around the shed rows (barns) are often very fit, may have just gone out to breeze (training runs in the mornings), and will be feeling good. Give them plenty of room, and do not assume every horse is as quiet and laid back as Doodle the lesson pony at your barn. During training hours, the asile ways in the barns will have horses being handwalked, ridden, etc and are very chaotic. If you are approached by a horse, move to the INSIDE of the shedrow (LEFT side of the horse) and stand still until horse passes. Always stay on the SAME SIDE as handler of any horse. Never ever go directly behind a horse, or get yourself cornered. Please be aware of roadways/paths blocked off to traffic during training or racing hours!! If you do not see a car where you are, you are probably not supposed to be there! Remember.... DRIVE SLOW! Make sure to lock your vehicle, and do not block in any entraces/doorways, other cars, or roadways.
Cancelling Appointment / Calling Trainers / Found Another Horse:
PLEASE DO NOT BE A "No-Show" when you make appointments with trainers to view a horse. GIVE A COURTESY CALL! If you have found another horse, call and tell them. Trainers have set schedules, marked down to the minute every day, and have rearranged their entire day to make room to show you a horse. By not showing up at the last minute, or being a No-Show, this not only is disrespectful to the trainers, but also damages the integrity of PARR. Trainers appreciate what we do to help network their horses. Please be respectful of their time. Remember many trainers are up at the crack of dawn, so limit any calls to them to 7am-8pm, please. Some trainers do Text, but a phone call is often preferred. Make sure to leave your name/name of horse calling about in any messages left. They may have numerous calls per day on horses. Remember to call the day before, or before you head to the track to remind them you are coming and make sure horse has not sold. Horses are ALWAYS sold on a FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS!
Soundness/Breathing/Bleeding/Health Concerns:
Please read the links at the top of this note, regarding common injuries to look for in ex-racehorses.
Racing History/Bloodlines:
Be sure to look up the horses history before going to look at it. www.Equibase.com , type in horses reg. racing name in the search bar. You will be able to see its full racing history and charts. The charts have more detailed info. You want to look for large gaps between training (remember, there are not as many races during winter months of Dec/Jan so it may be common to not see as many during that time). If there is a large gap, jot it down and ask the trainer if they know why. Sometimes it could mean the horse simply had some deserved time off, werent any races for them, or it could have been injured. You want to look at the Charts next to any races they finished last, to be sure it doesnt say anything about the horse being "vanned off" or not finishing the race. This could be the result of a serious injury. There will be a link below the racing history for the horses Bloodlines. You can do Google Searches, or seach specific names on Equibase for detailed info.
Ulcers/Does every racehorse have them?/Treatment:
Make sure you ask if the horse finishes their grain, are girthy when tacking up, etc. These could be signs of gastric ulcers. Sometimes, the horse just needs their teeth done, but ulcers are very common in all show horses and racehorses, as many of you know. You will need to include the cost of treatment in your budget, if your horse ends up having Ulcers. For example, if you do the recommended 56 day treatment of GastroGuard™ (28 days of full tube/day, 28 days half tube/day) you are looking at $1300. There are other methods to treating/helping with ulcers, however GastroGuard™ is the only FDA approved method of truly treating them effectively and 100%. The only way to KNOW a horse has ulcers is by scoping, but many people choose to just do the treatment regardless, and save on the additional cost of having your horse scoped. Succeed™ Digestive Supplement has a successful and more affordable program for helping get the digestive track back to normal, including the hind gut, as well. Talk to your veterinarian for more information on treating Ulcers if you suspect your horse may have them. There are many supplements on the market as well, that can help PREVENT ulcers during the transition phase of bringing your new OTTB home, starting new training, etc. We personally have seen a lot of success with SmartPak™ digestive supplements and the Succeed™.
Other Costs/Finances when Buying an OTTB:
Be realistic with what you can AFFORD. Ex-Racehorses are appealing because they are often "cheap", but there is still a good amount of money that has to go into getting them "back on track". Time off means a few months at least in board where they just need to "be a horse". No training, just love, grooming, good quality hay/grain, and lots of turnout. The training costs need to be decided on your ability, and your trainers cost to get the horses to the level needed. Discuss these up front before you decide to invest in an OTTB! You also need to be aware of their feet. Many times they are foot sore and need to grow new hoof and have quality farrier work done. Their heels are often very low for racing, so it will take some time to help lift them up off their heels, and grow a strong healthy foot. They will need their "racing plates" removed right away, and have regular shoes put on. Some people like to pull the shoes off, even if just the hind feet, and let a horse go barefoot. Keep in mind they will be very foot sore. You should talk to your farrier about the process. Some people like to paint the bottoms of their feet with venice turpentine (should be applied warm. A candle warmer works great!) to help toughen up the soles. It is also recommend to have their teeth checked/floated. Racehorses often have fungus/rain rot/girth itch type on their girth area, face, and legs. This is a combination of getting daily baths, being confined to their stalls, sharing tack, and rubbing tack/bridles from them being sweaty. Their bridles are made of nylon or rubber, so you can imagine it would be common for "rubs" to occur. There are lots of products on the market that will help clear up any irritations. A fecal test from your vet, or good worming (something for tapeworms too, or do a PowerPac) is recommended as well. Double check with the trainer what vaccines they horse has had. Sometimes there are vaccines "show horses" or horses in boarding barns are recommended to get, that racehorses do not always have. The papers/coggins/etc for the horse are stored in the Track Office. Talk to the trainer about how to get those papers when you purchase the horse.
When I get the horse home/Feeding/Turnout/Training:
Racehorses are used to routine. Try and keep things simple, quiet, and in a program. Slowly introduce them to turnout. Many horses have not been turned out since they were foals in a field! Put them out alone the first few times, with horses next to them, in SAFE fencing. Racehorses do not always understand electric fencing, especially "tape" types. Keep them supervised the first hour they are out to make sure they do not panic and go thru the fence. Once they are quiet and content, you can introduce them to pasture mates according to their personality. TB's tend to be more sensitive to the cold and bugs, so if they need a fly sheet, or need more blanketing in winter, keep an eye on that. Try and keep their grain type the same as they had a track, and make a slow transition to what you prefer to feed. We personally have seen great success with feeding our OTTB's a high fat feed with low sugar. For example, 12% protein, 10% fat, 12% fiber with low sugar. For us, the average OTTB, right off the track, who needs weight, is getting free choice quality hay, turnout, gets anywhere from 3-6 quarts per day of our grain, divided up between 2-3 feedings. Once we see the weight coming on, we adjust accordingly. Throwing pounds of a low fat, high sugar sweet feed is not going to do much good... you're just looking at having a hyped up horse that will take longer to gain weight!
Remember these horses are used to chain shanks, lip chains, etc. If you get a horse who is nervous or difficult to handle while they are coming down from the track, do not be afraid to use those methods correctly, to keep you and the horse safe. We have always found within a week, we can easily handle our horses with normal lead ropes, and good manners. Give them the benefit of the doubt.... they are changing to entirely new lifestyles, very quickly!
There are a lot of great articles on training techniques, steps, etc when it comes to riding your OTTB. Just do a Google search and have fun! We always recommend getting professional help from a trainer, at least during the first few months of re-training.
Most Important Tip.... Love your new OTTB unconditionally!
LINKS
An excellent article from Rood & Riddle Veterinary Hospital in Kentucky, with some FAQ and what to look for regarding health concerns, soundness, etc. of the Ex-Racehorse.
http://offtrackthoroughbreds.com/2013/07/02/qa-what-to-look-for-when-ottb-shopping/
More Great Tips from the New Vocation's OTTB Program, site. http://www.horseadoption.com/
"Racing Injuries" http://www.horseadoption.com/common-racing-injuries/
"OTTB Myths" http://www.horseadoption.com/racehorse-myths/
"Tips/Retraining" http://www.horseadoption.com/thoroughbred-tips/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TIPS and FAQ About Purchasing an Ex-Racehorse
written by M.B.
Calling About a Horse/What to Ask:
Call the trainer of the horse you are interested in, and ask any important questions up front. This helps eliminate wasting their time by setting an appointment and the horse being nothing near what you need/want. Ask about soundness, personality, when it raced last (if just raced, horse may be more sore, could have came back with minor injury, or will require extra "down time" for their body/muscles to relax before you can start any sort of re-training). Talk to them about your wants/goals, discuss the horses history (or what they know), how long have they had the horse, how is the horse for riding, bathing, in the stall, etc.
Many trainers have sport horse backgrounds and knowledge of other disciplines. Tell them what you are looking for, and ask questions! You can ask any questions you would ask anyone selling a horse. Their daily activities, personality, health concerns, past injuries that could decide what type of career horse can have, what does the horse eat (if a horse seems "hot" he could be on very large amounts of a high calorie/sugar Sweet Feed to give him increased energy. When bringing him into a new lifestyle with a lower sugar/reduced ration, you could assume the horse would "come down" from any type of a high. Turnout works wonders as well. You have to remember these horses get TONS of feed, and are confined to their stalls 23 hours a day. They are either worked or hand walked in the mornings (or put on hot-walker), but that is is. If a horse appears very laid back and quiet even in this environment, more likely than not they will adjust easily and be even better in a normal environment. If they are very hot/active/agitated/nervous, you have to take that into consideration. They may come down dramatically, but may be more suitable for a home with lots of turnout, in a 6 day a week riding program, etc. Those types most likely will not make the best trail horse for Dad!
Setting up an Appointment/What to Look For:
Set up an appointment to see the horse. If there are multiple horses you may be interested in, try setting up multiple appointments with various trainers on the same day. Remember to keep an open mind. These horses will look different than you may be used to of a typical "show horse" or pet. They will be racing fit (which often times can make them appear thin, no muscling along the neck, and a smaller looking barrel). Remember, they need to come down from the track after they go to their new home, lose the racing muscle, gain fat and new muscle in the "right places". This takes some time. If the horse is very thin, you are told they are a poor eater and often nervous, this could mean they have Gastric Stomach Ulcers or that they will be slower to gain weight. You need to take this into consideration in the amount of time you are willing to invest in "time off" for your next horse. Some horses can take up to 6 months to truly turn into "a new horse" again. Thankfully, most horses make a quick turn around and will be fat, quiet, and happy in about 60-90 days. Be aware that sometimes being "body sore" can cause a horse to look stiff or sore when walking/jogging. Watch for signs of an actual lamness versus just being "sore" somewhere. A veterinary exam is ALWAYS encouraged. Various vets are available by appointment to do Pre-Purchase Exams/Ex-Rays, etc.
What role does PARR play?
PARR is simply a page that allows trainers/owners of Racehorses to share their information. We take no responsibility or liability for the actual horses themselves, the information/accuracy, vet history, etc. Please use the same sense you would in buying a horse from anyone. Ask questions, trust your instinct on if you are 100% sure it is the right horse for you and you can give it the right home. We do not want to see any of these beautiful horses at an auction/slaughter/starved/sold over and over due to the wrong people buying the wrong horse! If you are unsure you can give it the proper home, please do not contact the owners.
Can I ride the horse at the track?
NO. If the horse is located at the racetrack, understand you can NOT sit on or ride the horse. You can see the horse, watch it walk/jog in hand, feel its legs, etc. There are no turnouts, paddocks, or arenas. Please discuss with the trainers/sellers if the horse is located OFF property, at a near by farm. Options of sitting on horse etc may be available for those horses! Remember the owner/trainer/handler/track/etc are NOT liable for ANY injuries caused by a horse, as under PA Equine Law.
Negotiating/Deposits/Purchasing:
You may want to set up any vet exams/shipping arrangements before looking at a horse, if you already feel hopeful it could work. Delays in trying to set these things up, can mean the difference between a trainer selling the horse to someone else who can take the horse sooner. The best tools for negotiation are offering a good quality home (have pictures of the farm/other horses/you riding etc with you to help prove you will offer a quality home), have some references with phone numbers available to give the trainer, and Cash / Horse Trailer. If you can leave a deposit that day, and have a vetting/shipping set up for the next day there is a good chance you will take the horse home. These trainers are often faced with very expensive Daily Care rates, and encouraged by the owners to sell the horses ASAP. If a trainer has new horses shipping in, and decide to retire a horse to make room, they want that horse to find a new home ASAP. If you say you will set up a vetting, but need a few days, or it will be a week until your shipper can come etc, we can almost guarantee that horse will be sold to the next person who comes to see it with cash-in-hand. These trainers have a business to run, and the owners do not like paying bills on a horse that is now "retired" so to speak. Most of the trainers at the track are willing to work with you over a reasonable time frame. Just remember... if you really want a horse, you have to act fast! Between PARR, CANTER, and other OTTB networking groups, these horses pictures are being shared with thousands of people a day online.
First Come First Serve Basis:
When a horse becomes "for sale" the owners are expecting the trainers to find them homes fast. These trainers have a lot of pressure on them. The owners either want the horse to WIN, or want the horse gone if he isn't. That is the sad truth. This is a business for many owners. An investment. Trainers are the ones responsible for doing the best they can, and doing the best thing for the horse. If a horse is not winning, or really not competitive as a racehorse, they will suggest the owners "retire" them. Sometimes they have new horses (or better horses) coming in and need the stall space. Trainers are given a set amount of stalls, so they choose their horses wisely.
It costs anywhere from $20-$60 per DAY for these owners to keep the horse at the track.... if they are retired, those daily expenses just become more and more of an expense, on top of normally a large amount of money lost. (If everyone got rich with racehorses... everyone would own one!). Please understand that most horses are sold on a FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS! If you want a horse, keep an open line of communication with the trainer/owner, leave a deposit if needed, and be active. It is not uncommon for someone to say they want a horse, the trainer not hear from them for a day, and next thing you know horse is sold to someone else. If you want a horse... be serious, come with cash, and have vetting/trailering figured out ASAP. Make sure the trainer KNOWS you are serious, and that you will offer a good home. The nicest horses normally do not last more than a few days once they start getting talked about! Often times people have scouted them out and the minute they hear they are available - that horse is sold to the first person who walks in with cash in hand.
How to See a horse at the Race Track/ID Required/Best Time to Go:
In order to get on the "backside" aka the stabling area, at Penn National, you will have to have the trainer sign you in at the gate. (Penn National's gate is located on the corner of Mountain Road and Firehouse Road). You must have a valid photo ID (such as a Drivers License) with you. You are limited to just a few "Day Passes" at the track per YEAR, so we HIGHLY encourage you to set up as many appointments to see horses in 1 day as you can! The best time to see horses is in the mornings, but talk to the trainer for their most convenient time.
Track Etiquette/Rules:
Horses ALWAYS HAVE THE RIGHT OF WAY! Racehorses moving around the shed rows (barns) are often very fit, may have just gone out to breeze (training runs in the mornings), and will be feeling good. Give them plenty of room, and do not assume every horse is as quiet and laid back as Doodle the lesson pony at your barn. During training hours, the asile ways in the barns will have horses being handwalked, ridden, etc and are very chaotic. If you are approached by a horse, move to the INSIDE of the shedrow (LEFT side of the horse) and stand still until horse passes. Always stay on the SAME SIDE as handler of any horse. Never ever go directly behind a horse, or get yourself cornered. Please be aware of roadways/paths blocked off to traffic during training or racing hours!! If you do not see a car where you are, you are probably not supposed to be there! Remember.... DRIVE SLOW! Make sure to lock your vehicle, and do not block in any entraces/doorways, other cars, or roadways.
Cancelling Appointment / Calling Trainers / Found Another Horse:
PLEASE DO NOT BE A "No-Show" when you make appointments with trainers to view a horse. GIVE A COURTESY CALL! If you have found another horse, call and tell them. Trainers have set schedules, marked down to the minute every day, and have rearranged their entire day to make room to show you a horse. By not showing up at the last minute, or being a No-Show, this not only is disrespectful to the trainers, but also damages the integrity of PARR. Trainers appreciate what we do to help network their horses. Please be respectful of their time. Remember many trainers are up at the crack of dawn, so limit any calls to them to 7am-8pm, please. Some trainers do Text, but a phone call is often preferred. Make sure to leave your name/name of horse calling about in any messages left. They may have numerous calls per day on horses. Remember to call the day before, or before you head to the track to remind them you are coming and make sure horse has not sold. Horses are ALWAYS sold on a FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS!
Soundness/Breathing/Bleeding/Health Concerns:
Please read the links at the top of this note, regarding common injuries to look for in ex-racehorses.
Racing History/Bloodlines:
Be sure to look up the horses history before going to look at it. www.Equibase.com , type in horses reg. racing name in the search bar. You will be able to see its full racing history and charts. The charts have more detailed info. You want to look for large gaps between training (remember, there are not as many races during winter months of Dec/Jan so it may be common to not see as many during that time). If there is a large gap, jot it down and ask the trainer if they know why. Sometimes it could mean the horse simply had some deserved time off, werent any races for them, or it could have been injured. You want to look at the Charts next to any races they finished last, to be sure it doesnt say anything about the horse being "vanned off" or not finishing the race. This could be the result of a serious injury. There will be a link below the racing history for the horses Bloodlines. You can do Google Searches, or seach specific names on Equibase for detailed info.
Ulcers/Does every racehorse have them?/Treatment:
Make sure you ask if the horse finishes their grain, are girthy when tacking up, etc. These could be signs of gastric ulcers. Sometimes, the horse just needs their teeth done, but ulcers are very common in all show horses and racehorses, as many of you know. You will need to include the cost of treatment in your budget, if your horse ends up having Ulcers. For example, if you do the recommended 56 day treatment of GastroGuard™ (28 days of full tube/day, 28 days half tube/day) you are looking at $1300. There are other methods to treating/helping with ulcers, however GastroGuard™ is the only FDA approved method of truly treating them effectively and 100%. The only way to KNOW a horse has ulcers is by scoping, but many people choose to just do the treatment regardless, and save on the additional cost of having your horse scoped. Succeed™ Digestive Supplement has a successful and more affordable program for helping get the digestive track back to normal, including the hind gut, as well. Talk to your veterinarian for more information on treating Ulcers if you suspect your horse may have them. There are many supplements on the market as well, that can help PREVENT ulcers during the transition phase of bringing your new OTTB home, starting new training, etc. We personally have seen a lot of success with SmartPak™ digestive supplements and the Succeed™.
Other Costs/Finances when Buying an OTTB:
Be realistic with what you can AFFORD. Ex-Racehorses are appealing because they are often "cheap", but there is still a good amount of money that has to go into getting them "back on track". Time off means a few months at least in board where they just need to "be a horse". No training, just love, grooming, good quality hay/grain, and lots of turnout. The training costs need to be decided on your ability, and your trainers cost to get the horses to the level needed. Discuss these up front before you decide to invest in an OTTB! You also need to be aware of their feet. Many times they are foot sore and need to grow new hoof and have quality farrier work done. Their heels are often very low for racing, so it will take some time to help lift them up off their heels, and grow a strong healthy foot. They will need their "racing plates" removed right away, and have regular shoes put on. Some people like to pull the shoes off, even if just the hind feet, and let a horse go barefoot. Keep in mind they will be very foot sore. You should talk to your farrier about the process. Some people like to paint the bottoms of their feet with venice turpentine (should be applied warm. A candle warmer works great!) to help toughen up the soles. It is also recommend to have their teeth checked/floated. Racehorses often have fungus/rain rot/girth itch type on their girth area, face, and legs. This is a combination of getting daily baths, being confined to their stalls, sharing tack, and rubbing tack/bridles from them being sweaty. Their bridles are made of nylon or rubber, so you can imagine it would be common for "rubs" to occur. There are lots of products on the market that will help clear up any irritations. A fecal test from your vet, or good worming (something for tapeworms too, or do a PowerPac) is recommended as well. Double check with the trainer what vaccines they horse has had. Sometimes there are vaccines "show horses" or horses in boarding barns are recommended to get, that racehorses do not always have. The papers/coggins/etc for the horse are stored in the Track Office. Talk to the trainer about how to get those papers when you purchase the horse.
When I get the horse home/Feeding/Turnout/Training:
Racehorses are used to routine. Try and keep things simple, quiet, and in a program. Slowly introduce them to turnout. Many horses have not been turned out since they were foals in a field! Put them out alone the first few times, with horses next to them, in SAFE fencing. Racehorses do not always understand electric fencing, especially "tape" types. Keep them supervised the first hour they are out to make sure they do not panic and go thru the fence. Once they are quiet and content, you can introduce them to pasture mates according to their personality. TB's tend to be more sensitive to the cold and bugs, so if they need a fly sheet, or need more blanketing in winter, keep an eye on that. Try and keep their grain type the same as they had a track, and make a slow transition to what you prefer to feed. We personally have seen great success with feeding our OTTB's a high fat feed with low sugar. For example, 12% protein, 10% fat, 12% fiber with low sugar. For us, the average OTTB, right off the track, who needs weight, is getting free choice quality hay, turnout, gets anywhere from 3-6 quarts per day of our grain, divided up between 2-3 feedings. Once we see the weight coming on, we adjust accordingly. Throwing pounds of a low fat, high sugar sweet feed is not going to do much good... you're just looking at having a hyped up horse that will take longer to gain weight!
Remember these horses are used to chain shanks, lip chains, etc. If you get a horse who is nervous or difficult to handle while they are coming down from the track, do not be afraid to use those methods correctly, to keep you and the horse safe. We have always found within a week, we can easily handle our horses with normal lead ropes, and good manners. Give them the benefit of the doubt.... they are changing to entirely new lifestyles, very quickly!
There are a lot of great articles on training techniques, steps, etc when it comes to riding your OTTB. Just do a Google search and have fun! We always recommend getting professional help from a trainer, at least during the first few months of re-training.
Most Important Tip.... Love your new OTTB unconditionally!